Tree pruning is healthy. Think of it as a haircut — you’re not hurting the plant, just keeping things in the best shape and paving the way for future growth. But you don’t want to disfigure your shrubs. Misguided hacks can prevent your tree from blossoming that year. Consider this your quick guide to the best time of year for tree pruning and shrub trimming.
First, an important note: Dead branches, those in the way of pedestrians, and those that could damage your property can be removed anytime. Don’t wait with a dangerous situation. If you have a tree emergency, you can call us 24 hours a day at 503-538-8733.
When to Prune Trees: Winter
Overall, the best time to prune your trees is when they’re dormant, so late winter to early spring is ideal. (In fact, that’s the only time to prune birch trees and American elms.) For shade trees like ash and oak, winter is the perfect time. Deciduous fruit trees like apples, cherries, and pears should also be pruned in midwinter.
Oregon State University horticulturist Ross Penhallegon agrees. “November through March is a good time to prune,” he says. “If you are worried about winter freeze damage, wait until after Feb. 1, which is the best time to prune in western Oregon, and March 15 east of the Cascade Mountains.” Not only is it less traumatizing to the tree, but it’s easier to see the tree’s structure without all of its leaves. Fall isn’t too early to contact your arborist and set up an appointment for the months ahead.
When Not to Prune
Don’t wait too late! In general, you want to avoid pruning trees during late spring and early summer. That’s when everything is starting to bloom. Trees don’t have enough of a chance to heal before the growing season if you prune them too late. The burst of energy plants get in the spring will help heal small cuts made in the previous months.
If a tree already has leaves, don’t attack them too much — that’s where photosynthesis is happening and where the tree is getting its food. Not enough leaves mean not enough energy sources. Think of leaves as little, flat green batteries that keep the tree running.
Fall is also usually not the best time to prune. Cuts seem to heal more slowly during the fall, and pests or fungi can easily prey on plants. As Oregon State University says, “Pruning during the spring (post-dormancy) and fall (pre-dormancy) is generally the least desirable time as the plant is most vulnerable during those times.” Try to be patient and wait for trees and shrubs to be fully dormant before trimming them.
Although late winter and early spring is generally the best time to trim trees, some have different timelines. Read on for the intricacies of pruning.
When to Prune Flowering Shrubs and Trees
The main determining factor for pruning shrubs is whether they flower on old wood or new wood. Does your shrub blossom in early spring, on old wood from last season? The best time to prune them is right after they bloom.
If your shrub flowers on new wood — it’s a late bloomer, so to speak — the blossoms grow on the current season’s growth instead of last season’s. That means you’re fine to prune these shrubs in late winter to early spring, because you won’t be harming the blossoms yet.
Here’s a handy chart:
Old Wood
Most Plants & Shrubs
New Wood & Broadleaf Evergreens
Blossom time:
Early spring
Spring
Late spring
Best to prune:
After they bloom (early summer)
Winter
Late winter to early spring
Examples:
Lilacs
Shrubs grown primarily for their foliage
Lavender
Rhododendrons
Deciduous shade trees
Roses (mid-February to early March in the Willamette Valley)
Suckers and water sprouts are unproductive offshoots that steal nutrients from the main stem or trunk. They aren’t harmful, but they can be annoying. This is one of the rare times when you shouldn’t take to the pruning shears in the winter, during the dormant season, because that will make water sprouts and suckers come back with a vengeance the next spring. Instead, clip suckers and sprouts in the early summer months of May and June.
Check out this 30-second video about pruning suckers and sprouts:
Is My Tree Bleeding?
When you prune certain trees like maples, birches, and walnuts, they’ll ooze sap. This potentially disturbing sight is trees’ version of bleeding — except they aren’t hurt. In fact, this is completely normal. Once leaves start to grow, the sap will stop flowing.
Why Hire a Certified Arborist for Tree Trimming?
After reading all this, you might feel ready to head out back with your shears and do some trimming. Whoa there, Nelly! I admire your enthusiasm. Unless you’re experienced and quite knowledgeable about trimming and pruning, it’s best to hire an ISA-Certified Arborist® like us at Northwest Arbor-Culture, because we know how to trim your tree or shrub without topping or making dangerous cuts that leave your plant vulnerable to infection.
It’s already September, so it’s never too early to set up an appointment for tree trimming this winter! Call us today at 503.538.8733 or fill out our online form for a free quote.
Bring the outdoors in with potted indoor trees! Besides brightening up a room decoratively, there are several benefits to indoor trees. They improve health, well-being, and indoor air quality. Studies show that indoor plants have even been known to help sharpen your focus. Here are the top 6 indoor trees. Pet owners, note that most of these are toxic to dogs and cats, but read to the end for one that’s animal-safe!
Lemon trees have sweet-smelling, beautiful blooms and delicious lemons almost year-round. They are always either blooming or flowering. Meyer lemons are hardier than other lemons, which means that they can withstand colder conditions. But they thrive best in warmer temperatures, so you should put them outside during the summer. If you have pets, you might not want this in your home. Lemons are toxic to cats and dogs.
Botanical Name: Citrus Meyeri
Care: Intermediate – Use slightly acidic, all-purpose soil. It needs a lot of light in full southern exposure. Keep evenly moist and mist daily.
The Rubber Tree is a popular and versatile houseplant. Its large, glossy leaves add beauty to any room. It is adaptable and grows well in average indoor conditions. Unfortunately, this plant is toxic to animals.
Botanical Name: Ficus Elastica
Care: Easy – It grows well with indirect light. Place in an eastern window facing the morning sun. The plant prefers average to somewhat warm temperatures. It needs regular, deep watering. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
A durable plant, the Madagascar Dragon Tree is one of the easiest trees to grow. It can tolerate low lighting and doesn’t need regular watering. The narrow leaves are dark green and edged in deep red. It’s toxic to cats and dogs – so if you have pets, you might not want it in your home.
Botanical Name: Dracaena Marginata
Care: Easy – It adapts to a variety of light conditions, but will have the best color when grown in indirect, bright light. Pot in a well-draining soil and water on a regular basis. Wait until the soil is dry before watering thoroughly with water that has set for 24 hours.
With large, veined leaves that grow upright, the Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree makes a great focal point in any room. Native to the tropics, the plant thrives in wet and warm conditions. Can’t replicate tropical conditions at home? Luckily, these tough plants can tolerate less-than-ideal conditions for a pretty long time. Pet owners beware: this plant is unfortunately toxic to cats and dogs too.
Botanical name: Ficus Lyrata
Care: Intermediate – This plant needs bright, filtered light. It thrives when placed in an eastern-facing window. You should keep the tree moist, but don’t let it sit in water. Any fast-draining potting soil will work for this plant.
This plant is not actually a pine tree, but it has similar evergreen foliage and an upright, pyramid shape. The tree can grow fast – up to 6 inches a year when potted. It is a popular choice during Christmas, but can be enjoyed year-round. Warning to pet owners: It’s toxic to dogs and cats.
Botanical Name:Araucaria heterophylla
Care: Intermediate – This tree grows fine in typical indoor temperatures. It should be placed in an area where it can receive a few hours of direct sunlight and plenty of indirect light during the day. Rotate the plant a quarter every week for even light distribution. Only water this plant when the top inch of soil dries, and pour the water into the soil until it drains out through the bottom. Let the soil drain for at least 15 minutes and then dump the water.
This plant is a fantastic indoor plant. It’s also one of the easiest palms to maintain and care for, due to its tolerance for medium to low light. Lucky for pet owners, this tree is nontoxic to cats and dogs!
Botanical name: Howea Forsteriana
Care: Easy – Even though this plant tolerates low light conditions, it grows best in conditions with lots of light. Place it in a spot that provides as much sunlight as possible. Plant this tree in a container with adequate drainage and soil formulated for potted plants. You can water this tree less often during the winter, but it must be watered regularly in the summertime. You only need to water it when it’s dry during the winter.
Oregon is known for its abundance of trees, but do you know Oregon’s state tree? Who owns our forests? Which trees are native to Oregon?
Get ready for some tree trivia as well as some important tree safety advice for winter! I’ll even give you some tips for planting trees that grow well in Oregon.
A History of Oregon’s Forest
Ever since Lewis and Clark reached the mouth of the Columbia River in 1805, people have poured into Oregon, drawn by its forests and natural beauty. And it’s still happening today. Believe it or not, Oregon is the most popular moving destination in the country.
The influx of people over time meant more cities, highways, and infrastructure. Oregon also developed a huge timber industry, which is still going strong today. Despite all that, Oregon still has almost 92% of the forests that covered the state in 1850. Not bad!
That’s not a coincidence though. Private landowners cooperate with both federal and state governments to preserve Oregon forests. Among other strategies, that includes replanting, restrictions on clearcutting, and avoiding and managing occasional forest fires.
Oregon’s Famous Trees
Oregon has a few famous trees to its name. How much do you know about the state’s most quintessentially Oregonian celebrities?
Oregon’s State Tree
Our state tree is the Douglas fir, an evergreen tree with pine needles and cones. The tree is named after botanist-explorer, David Douglas, who described it as “one of the most striking and truly graceful objects in nature.” Now that’s a glowing review!
Oregon’s Largest Tree
There is some debate about which tree is truly Oregon’s largest. It used to be a 206-foot-tall Sitka Spruce along the coast near Seaside, Oregon. In December 2007, a wind storm snapped the 700-year-old tree in half. You can still visit the 17-foot diameter trunk, though.
Here’s where the controversy starts. Officially, the largest tree is now a 329-foot-tall Douglas fir in Coos County (pictured below), but non-profit tree workers say they’ve found an even bigger Arcadia Cedar just outside of Cannon Beach.
The Octopus Tree
Without a doubt, one of Oregon’s weirdest-looking trees is a different giant Sitka spruce in Cape Meares, Oregon. Its nickname, the Octopus Tree, isn’t hard to figure out. The tree’s multiple trunks grow out of its base like giant tentacles.
The tree has historical significance too. Experts believe it was once a gathering site for Native American tribes in Tillamook, and place of reverence where elders made decisions and shamans performed ceremonies.
Who Owns Oregon’s Forests?
The majority of Oregon’s forested land belongs to the federal government, but not all of it. Here’s the breakdown:
60% – federal government
35% – private ownership
3% – the State of Oregon
1% – tribe lands
1% – other public ownerships
Oregon Tree Safety
In general, trees make Oregon healthier and safer by purifying the air and casting shade from the sun. Trees don’t come without risks though. Western Oregon in particular often has heavy rains and strong winds (like the ones that ultimately knocked down the Sitka Spruce near Seaside). In years like this one, we also get extremely dry summers, which puts us at risk for forest fires.
Preventing Forest Fires
Fires are a natural part of a forest’s cycle, but most of Oregon’s fires are human-caused, and therefore preventable. Some of the biggest culprits are cigarettes, gas leaking from cars, and fireworks too close to forested areas. Campfires are a big one too. According to OregonForests.org, there are several steps you can take to make sure your campfire is safe:
Keep your fire at a manageable size.
Never leave a campfire unattended.
Always have a large bucket of water nearby.
Let the wood burn completely to ash.
Dowse your campfire with water until the steaming and hissing stops.
Cover all embers, not just the red ones.
Stir to make sure everything is wet and cold to the touch. Let it sit for at least 10 minutes.
Check again for any remaining hot spots. Dowse with more water if needed.
Use dirt when there is no water available. Mix enough dirt into the embers until everything is cool but do not bury the fire.
Try this next time you go camping to be extra safe.
Protect Yourself From Falling Trees
When wind, rain, and heavy snow hits, weaker trees are at risk of falling. Look for tree branches near your house or power lines, and get them pruned or trimmed.
The number one thing you can do to make sure none of your trees fall on people or property is to get them inspected before harsh winter weather arrives. We’re always happy to swing by and give you some free expert advice about your trees.
What Trees Grow Best in Oregon?
Did you know fall is one of the best times to plant new trees? If you’re looking for a tree that will flourish in Oregon and won’t require an unnecessary amount of maintenance, planting a tree that’s native to Oregon is a good bet.
Many dogwoods, maples, and evergreens are perfectly suited to the Pacific Northwestern climate.
For more detailed information on what to plant and how, check out these tips from the Portland Nursery. Or see this longer list of native Oregon plants
Questions?
Still have questions about Oregon’s forests, which trees to plant, or how to keep your property safe this winter?
Call us anytime at 503-538-8733 for free, no-pressure advice.
Hurried cities, fast trains, responsibilities that never end. It’s no surprise many of us are stressed. What might surprise you is that something as simple as spending time in a forest can reduce stress, lower your blood pressure, and even help you sleep. Even just a five-minute walk through the trees can make a difference.
I wish I could bring the forest to you, but sadly I can’t. So I’ll give you the next best thing: a virtual tour through six of the most tranquil and soothing trees in the world.
Before we get started, here’s some calming music to listen to as you read.
This desert beauty is commonly called the Joshua tree, but its actual name is the yucca brevifolia. It thrives in the Mojave Desert and produces gorgeous creamy white flowers in the spring.
Your eyes aren’t deceiving you. A sleeping Buddha rests in this 50-year-old fig tree in Wat Mahatat, Ayutthaya historical park. You might be wondering what Buddha’s head is doing in the tree, but the truth is, no one knows exactly how he got there. Some people think the tree simply grew around his head, and he has stayed there ever since.
As if you needed another excuse to take a trip to the French countryside.
These colors were on display in France during fall months. The wooden bridge, orange leaves, and looming fog make this scene almost creepy — but no less beautiful.
The winter of 2011 brought a huge snowstorm to Shanghai. It stopped hundreds of buses, flights, and construction sites all over the city. The result was this beautiful white stillness.
Are you feeling relaxed yet?
5. Los Angeles, CA, USA
Let’s journey back to the USA to appreciate the glory that is this lanky palm tree in the California sunset.
Most people don’t know that the palm tree’s true name is arecaceae. Palm trees are resilient and versatile — they can live anywhere from rainforests to deserts.
Imagine sitting on the bench beneath this giant tree, listening to the sound of the water. What could be more tranquil?
Seattle, like our home in Portland, has no shortage of native trees. Many of them lose their leaves in the winter; others don’t.
Conclusion
I hope you’ve enjoyed this journey through the world’s virtual forests. Don’t forget to take a break every now and then to appreciate one in person. If you’re like most people, a stroll through a green, park-like setting is more likely to calm your mind than a walk through city streets.
Even wild hunters, like this majestic spotted leopard, can’t help but relax around trees.
Is that song still playing? Our tour is almost over. Just for fun, which tree was your favorite? Weigh in on this poll and see if others agreed with you.
How do you use nature to help you relax? Have a favorite outdoor spot? Tell us in the comments?
Trees are beautiful and purify the air we breathe, but they can also be breathtaking, funny, and just plain weird. Get ready to see infrared trees and trees with faces, 1,000-year-old trees and trees from the future. Let’s take a trip around the world to look at 10 crazy tree photos from four different continents!
1. Great Banyan Tree – India
This looks like a forest, but believe it or not, it’s just one tree. In 1925 the central trunk had to be removed due to rot, but the rest of the tree is still alive and well. It lives in a botanical garden near Kolkata, India.
This one is crazy not because of the tree itself, but because of the strange items that adorn it. (Um… that’s a lot of shoes.) This tree in Amboy, California collapsed back in 2010, but that didn’t stop people from adding their footwear to its branches. It has more shoes than ever! It was one of at least 76 shoe trees in America where people stashed old shoes.
This giant tree has so far managed to coexist with the Ta Prohm temple ruins in Cambodia, which were originally built as a Buddhist monastery and university somewhere around the 12th and 13th centuries. People have nicknamed this species the “spung” tree — its technical name, Tetrameles nudiflora, is a bit tricky.
These trees are common in southern Asia, but most people agree that this one is by far the craziest! Check out this video of a similar spung tree nearby.
This is the only one that’s not technically a photo. It’s an artist’s rendering of what a real life tree of 40 fruit might look like in 10 years. What’s a tree of 40 fruit? Artist Sam Van Aken created 18 of them with tree grafting. The name comes from the fact that each one can produce 40 different kinds of fruit. It started as an art project. Now it’s a conservation and education method.
These bizarre but beautiful Hawaiian palm trees probably look completely normal in real life. This is infrared photography, which means the photo reveals infrared light, light that lies just beyond the visible spectrum. So we can get a glimpse of the light we can’t see with the naked eye. (Learn more about infrared photography here.)
A photo posted by Alba Julià Vázquez (@albiii17) on
I can’t tell you what kind of tree we’re looking at, but this is certainly a crazy tree photo. Spending the night in a hanging tent sounds fun, but don’t try this at home. If you want to spend some quality time up in your tree, check out this post on building a treehouse.
You can find this this giant carving at Stanley Park in Vancouver, B.C. An artist carved the striking face into the trunk of this giant tree stump in the mid 1900s.
The Two Spirits Sculpture (a.k.a. the “God Head”) is hidden in the park’s forest — many people search and can’t even find it!
Native to Madagascar, baobab trees have a long, bulbous trunk with little leaves and branches that look sprout-like in comparison. They can live over 1,000 years.
This particular type is called a Grandidier’s baobab, or simply a giant baobab, because it’s the largest species of baobab tree.
Have you ever seen a tree growing out of the side of a cliff face before? This one is the well-known Ying Ke, or Welcome pine.
It lives in Huangshan (Chinese for “Yellow Mountains”), an area famous for its sunsets, strangely shaped granite peaks, hot springs, and many other beautiful natural features.
You might be wondering if this is real, but ask a Moroccan, and they’ll tell you that some goats are actually master tree climbers. Argan trees like this one drop their fruit in July. These goats love argan fruit, so they often head up there to grab some before it falls.
The world is full of crazy trees. We just scratched the surface in this post, but I hope you enjoyed the trip. Which tree was your favorite?
The simplest definition of arboriculture is tree care. This post will answer “What is arboriculture?” in more detail, explain how it’s different from forestry and landscaping, and explain what certified arborists do.
People like Chris and I who plant and prune trees are arborists. But not all arborists trim trees. And definitely not all tree services use certified arborists. More on that below too.
Arboriculture Definition
Arboriculture means growing, tending, studying, or removing individual trees and shrubs. (It also encompasses woody plants and vines.) Here are a few different aspects of arboriculture:
Choosing and trimming ornamental shrubs for a homeowner
Studying different tree hybrids
Researching the best grafting methods
Identifying a leaf or plant for someone
Helping someone figure out if their tree is diseased and how to save it
As you can see, arboriculture is both a theory and practice. You could be a professor of arboriculture and spend most of your time doing research. There’s nothing wrong with that. At Northwest Arbor-Culture, Inc., we like getting our hands dirty and helping people care for their trees.
Arboriculture vs. Forestry or Landscaping
How is arboriculture different from forestry? Good question. Forestry is about the health of groups of trees (a forest!), while arboriculture focuses on individual trees. You know the saying, “They can’t see the forest for the trees”? It’s usually an insult. Someone missed the big picture by focusing too much on little details. Well, arborists do that on purpose!
Arboriculture sometimes overlaps with landscaping, but they have distinctions too. Landscaping is mainly about the appearance of a yard. Landscapers change trees and plants to fit an aesthetic goal. It’s a bit surface-level. Arboriculture prioritizes the health of trees and plants over beauty, although ideally they’d go hand-in-hand. A good arboriculturist in Portland would encourage you to plant native plants in your backyard (rather than a palm tree, for example).
The International Society of Arboriculture
The International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) is the mothership. It’s been around for almost a century. The organization exists to promote trees and help people maintain and enjoy them. The ISA is a great resource for tree information. It also certifies arborists.
On our site, we proudly say we’re ISA-certified arborists, but what does that mean? Several things:
We have a high level of tree care knowledge and skills.
We’ve passed a detailed, thorough ISA exam on 10 different topics, including tree biology, pruning, disease diagnosis and treatment, risk management, soil, and more.
We have advanced, ongoing training in arboriculture — the certification requires continued professional development.
We have at least three years’ full-time experience working in arboriculture and/or arboriculture education.
We adhere to the ISA code of ethics.
Hiring a certified arborist means someone knows more than how to handle pruning shears. As ISA-certified arborists, we know more — and have more experience — than someone who just entered the biz. Instead of focusing on short-term, aesthetic solutions like tree topping, which you should avoid, we care about trees’ long-term health. We aren’t going to just snip a few branches and call it good. We want you to enjoy healthy, beautiful trees for decades through careful selection, placement, and maintenance.
Hire an ISA-Certified Arborist
Do you need help figuring out if your tree is dying? Is it growing too close to your house or power lines? Want to add some shrubbery to your yard, or simply get rid of a stump? Call us at 503-538-8733, email us, or use our contact form. We do no-obligation consultations so you know your best option.
Tree grafting is kind of the tree equivalent of an organ transplant. It’s attaching a small, budding branch (called the “cultivar”) from one healthy tree onto the trunk (technically the “stock” or “rootstock”) of a different tree. Tree grafting usually happens in winter while the tree is dormant. That way it has time to heal and absorb its new branch.
Sometimes tree grafting is as simple as one branch replacing another. But sometimes a cultivar is added in addition to existing branches. Sometimes two small branches are attached to an existing one. In that case, the branch that thrives stays, and the other one is removed. Below I’ll talk about why arborists graft trees and a few different techniques.
How Are Branches Grafted?
Tree grafting involves making strategic cuts. You can do it a few different ways. Here’s a quick overview of four grafting techniques:
Bud grafting: This involves making a T-shaped cut in the bark of one tree, peeling back the bark a little bit, and putting the cultivar inside. Then you tape or tie the new piece in place and wait for it to heal.
Bud grafting. Source: University of Missouri
Whip grafting: This method attaches two branches that are the same size to form a single branch. You cut them both at the same angle with a little groove, so they fit together exactly. Then you wrap grafting tape or something similar around the attached area to secure it.
Whip grafting. Source: North Dakota State University
Bark inlay grafting: If the branch is too big for whip grafting, bark grafting is appropriate. In this technique, you cut off a branch and make two or three small notches in it. Then you attach two or three smaller branches in those notches. You nail the cultivars in place and use something like grafting wax to seal everything.
Bark inlay grafting. Source: Texas A&M
Veneer grafting: With veneer grafting, you cut a small flap in the rootstock, so it creates almost like a tiny pocket. Then you insert the cultivar in the flap after cutting it off at an angle. Once again, you wrap the new branch in place with grafting tape or something else.
Veneer grafting. Source: Texas A&M
Why Graft Trees?
There are numerous reasons for tree grafting. First of all, it saves time. It can take 5-10 years for a fruit tree to bear fruit. Meanwhile, you just want to make an apple pie or some pear preserves, right? So you graft the branch of a fruit tree onto the stock of a different tree. In a couple short years, you get fruit!
Sometimes tree grafting is purely aesthetic. One artist in New York City is trying to grow a tree with 40 different kinds of fruit. His initial goal was just to make a colorful tree, but then he realized how little fruit diversity there is in the U.S. As he told NPR: “[The project] really became about preserving some of these antique and heirloom varieties.”
Arborists also graft trees if the desired tree is not very hardy or not a perfect fit for the climate. They may start with a hardy tree and then graft on a more sensitive tree or one with poor roots. Or if one type of tree is vulnerable to a disease in the soil, you can graft it onto a less vulnerable, stronger tree.
Get Advice on Tree Grafting
Wondering if tree grafting is possible with your fruit trees? We’d be happy to come take a look and give you some free advice. Get in touch with the certified arborists at Northwest Arbor-Culture, Inc. today!
Tree topping is sometimes done to mature trees. It’s when people cut branches down to stubs or to lateral branches not big enough to sustain the remaining branch. “Rounding over,” “hat-racking,” “tipping,” “heading,” “stubbing” or “dehorning,” are all other names for topping.
Why Do People Top Trees?
Some homeowners top a tree when it grows too tall for their liking. They are under the false impression that topping reduces the hazard of falling branches during a storm. It actually has the opposite effect. People also top trees when they interfere with sunny garden areas, solar collectors, buildings, or power lines.
1. Topping stresses trees. Remember learning about photosynthesis in biology? Basically, leaves are the food source of trees. Topping depletes the tree’s stored reserves and removes a major portion of the tree’s food-making ability.
2. Topping activates undesirable growth. Topping a tree removes most of the buds that would form a normal branch system, often stimulating “water sprout” regrowth just below the pruning cut. Water sprouts are dense, ugly, upright branches, and they grow fast. Topped trees quickly grow back to their original height, but lack the beauty of their natural form.
3. Topping leaves behind gaping wounds. The wounds left behind from tree topping are slow to close. This makes the tree more susceptible to fungal decay or insect attacks. If it is invaded by either fungus or insects, it can spread into the trunk, killing the tree.
4. Topping can lead to sunburn. That’s right, trees can get sunburned, too. The leaves on the branches within a tree’s crown absorb sunlight. When the leaves are removed, the trunk and the branches that remain are abruptly exposed to high levels of heat and light. Increased sun exposure on the branches and trunk can cause severe bark damage.
5. Topping deforms trees. When a tree is topped, its natural beauty is replaced by ugly branch stubs, distinct pruning cuts, and branches that grow in a broom-like shape. Tree topping can lower the resale value of your property.
Source: Kelly’s Cutting Edge
Alternatives to Tree Topping
Sometimes you want to reduce the height or spread of a tree, to provide room for a power line, for example. There are recommended techniques for this.
Remove small branches to their point of origin. If you want to shorten a larger tree limb, prune it back to a lateral branch that is large enough to support it. How do you know if it’s large enough? It must be at least one-third the diameter of the limb being removed. This practice of branch reduction helps preserve the tree’s natural form. Sometimes the best thing to do is remove the entire tree and replace it with a smaller species.
In summary, the answer is no, you should not top trees. Tree topping stresses trees, stimulates undesirable growth, leaves gaping wounds, damages the bark, and makes trees ugly! Our certified arborists at Northwest Arbor-Culture, Inc. discourage the practice.
Do you have any trees on your property that you would like reduced in size? Contact the certified arborists at Northwest Arbor-Culture today. We can prune your tree safely.
Planting trees is a fun and easy activity to do with your friends and family. When you plant trees on your property, you can add a lot of beauty and value to your landscape. While planting a tree can seem like a very simple task, there are many rules that you need to follow to ensure that your tree and landscape thrives.
Read this post to learn how to properly plant a tree so that it can grow and stay healthy for years to come.
Research and Placement
Always research the type of tree that you would like to plant before planting. Different species can grow to unwanted sizes, send out roots that damage concrete and landscaping, or drop leaves and needles that damage roofs and patios.
When choosing where to plant your new tree, there are several things to consider. First, make sure that your tree will not be placed too close to your home’s foundation or concrete structures. Generally, a space of 10 feet or more should be between any structure and your tree. Also, make sure to check with your State Utility Center to make sure that you won’t accidentally sever any dangerous electrical or water pipes on your property.
Consult your local nursery or arborist if you ever have questions about which type of tree to buy and where on your property to place it.
When To Plant
Different types of trees prefer to be planted throughout different seasons. Generally trees should be planted early or in the middle of spring or early to mid-fall. Avoid planting trees during the middle of summer because the heat and dryness can stress and kill a young tree.
Digging Your Hole
The depth and width of your hole is very important. If a tree is planted too deeply, the roots will have trouble absorbing oxygen and water through the top layers of soil. If a hole isn’t wide enough, the soil around the root ball will be too compacted to facilitate root growth.
Dig your hole at least 3-4 times as wide as the root ball of the tree. The depth of the hole should be slightly less than the height of the root ball. The ‘flare’ or collar of the tree where the base of the trunk begins to widen into the root structure should eventually sit just above the level of soil after the tree is fully planted.
Make sure not to compact the soil around the edges and bottom of your hole. Even using your shovel to loosen the surrounding dirt can assist the flow of water and root growth for your new tree.
Removing the Container
When you’re removing the tree from the container, be gentle but firm. Do not to pull the tree out by the trunk as this can hurt the entire root structure of the tree. Lay the tree on its side and tap and squeeze the container to loosen the soil. Gently slide the container off of the root ball of the tree. Cutting the container on both sides with a short blade (1-2 inches) can also help the removal process.
Separating the Roots
Depending upon how your tree was grown and how old it is, the roots may have formed to the shape of the burlap or plastic container. It is crucial that the roots of the young tree are not curling, twisted in circles, or bound around the tree. These types of roots will eventually expand and twist around themselves, essentially strangling or ‘girdling’ the roots of the tree and slowly killing it.
If the roots look ‘pot bound’ and twisted, use a short razor knife (1-2 inches) to make 4-6 cuts down the side and several cuts on the bottom of the root ball. This will cut and loosen twisted roots and force the tree to send out new roots in all directions helping it create an even and widespread root base.
Also, make sure to remove any stakes, ropes, and burlap from the tree before planting. These will inhibit root and tree growth.
Placing the Tree
Once the tree is prepared, place it in the center of your hole. Now is the time to align the branches and ‘pretty’ side of the tree to the main view point before you have fully planted it. Adjust the tree by the root ball, not by holding the trunk.
Make sure the top inch of the root ball is above the soil level and exposed. Place soil under the tree to slightly raise the level if needed. Once the root ball is in position use the soil you removed to fill in your hole. If your soil is mainly clay or particularly low-quality, you can use organic compost and other soil amenders to improve the quality. Avoid using heavy fertilizers and chemicals that can burn or kill a young tree.
After the hole is completely filled in, lightly tamp down the soil around the roots to stabilize the tree.
Creating a Berm and Mulching
Creating a water basin or berm around the base of your tree will fight soil erosion and hold water where the roots can absorb it. Make a 3 foot diameter circular berm about 3 inches tall around your tree. Make sure not to cover the trunk or flare of the tree.
Once you have created the berm, cover the entire planting area with 3-4 inches of mulch. Taking care to keep the mulch at least 2 inches from the trunk of the tree. Read our previous post for proper mulching techniques.
Watering
Finally you will want to water your newly planted tree. Give your tree about 5-10 gallons of water to begin with to help settle the soil and stimulate root growth. Water your tree daily for about two weeks and then every other day for about two months. Eventually you can water your tree once a week until it is completely established.
Now that you have successfully planted your tree, make sure to water, prune, and care for it properly throughout its entire life. Spending several hours a month caring for your tree will ensure that you have a healthy tree that will give add shade and beauty to your home.
If you ever have any questions or concerns about planting a tree, don’t hesitate to contact your local arborist or the professionals at Northwest Arbor-Culture Inc. We have over 30 years of experience caring for trees and landscapes and can help you with any tree care need.
Have you ever planted a tree? Tell us about your experience in the comments section.
Trees are a very fascinating and strong organisms in many respects. They can withstand hurricane force winds, freezing temperatures, and even prolonged drought.
Yet a tree can be greatly affected by even the slightest change. You can read our previous post, Why Is My Tree Dying?, to learn about how overwatering, improper transplanting, and even slight changes in the soil can injure and even kill a tree.
When a tree is affected by certain ailments and is in close proximity to cars, property, and people, it can become a serious hazard.
Keep reading to learn some of the most common tree hazards to look out for, as well as what you can do to help protect yourself and your property from tree damage.
First, let’s learn what defines a hazardous tree.
What Makes a Tree Hazardous
The USDA Forest Service defines a “hazard tree” as “a tree with structural defects likely to cause failure of all or part of the tree.” But a tree does not truly become a hazard until it threatens the safety of a person, property, roadway, or location where people gather like a park, pathway, or backyard.
If a tree is located in a forest or habitat preserve, it is natural for a tree to slowly degrade and eventually fall.
It is when a tree is posing an immediate threat to people, property, or public spaces that it should be considered a ‘hazard tree’ and dealt with appropriately.
Tree Hazards To Look For
There are several common warning signs for a hazard tree. While some are easier to spot than others, it is likely that a hazard tree will show one or more of the following signs.
Dead Wood
Dead branches and sections of a tree are hazards that should be dealt with promptly. Dead wood can be dislodged by wind, animals, or just fall unexpectedly and cause extensive harm to whatever it falls upon.
When a dead branch separates from the tree but is caught in the canopy, it is often called a “widowmaker.” These are at a very high risk to fall unexpectedly on something or someone.
Dead branches should be trimmed or removed as soon as possible to prevent any damage from falling.
Cracks
Some species of trees, like Douglas Fir, develop cracks naturally. But usually when you notice cracks or split wood on your tree, it may be a sign of failing tree health.
Depending upon how large the tree and how serious the crack, cabling may be an option, or you may be forced to remove the entire tree. Especially if the crack extends deep within or completely through the trunk.
Weak Branch Unions
A weak branch connection can occur naturally or due to improper pruning. You can identify a weak union when there is bark that is growing into and between to connected branches.
This is especially hazardous if the weak union is between two main branches or is leading to cracking between the two affected branches.
Decay
Sometimes trees can experience small amounts of rot and decay and still remain healthy and strong. However, when you notice that the tree is beginning to feel spongy, crumbly, or growing a cavity, you may need to remove the tree. Other signs of tree decay are mushrooms or brackets growing on the trunk, flare, or exposed roots of a tree.
Cankers
Cankers are open sores or dead tissues on the outside of a tree. While the presence of cankers may not spell the end for your tree, if a canker grows large enough that it affects “more than half of the tree’s circumference” or is connected with a crack or cavity, you should thoroughly inspect your tree.
Root Problems
While it may be difficult to detect root problems that are located underground, there are certain activities that can be closely related with root damages in a tree.
Severing roots when installing irrigation lines or sewers can greatly decrease a tree’s stability and even lead to tree death. Paving concrete over tree roots can cut off oxygen and nutrient supply and in turn affect the tree’s roots and overall stability. Parking vehicles or equipment on tree roots can compact soil and injure roots. Also, simply changing to the soil grade more that 2-3 inches can injure tree roots.
Generally when a tree becomes unstable, you can notice mounds or bulging in the soil at the base of tree indicating the displacement of soil caused by the leaning of a tree. This is an important indicator that your tree needs corrective help or removal soon.
So what corrective actions can you take to secure or save a tree that may be at risk of failing?
Corrective Measures
Tree pruningand removing any problem sections or branches can easily eliminate the problem, especially when the rest of the tree is sound.
Move the property at risk. If the vehicle, structure, or property can be easily moved from the area in danger, you can ensure its safety without removing the tree.
Cabling or bracing a tree won’t fix the tree’s health issues, but may extend the life of a tree. Cabling a tree involves adding a steel or synthetic cable that actually wraps around a tree and its branches, securing them together and providing a failsafe in case part of that tree fails. A brace is used when a tree is split or cracking. You brace a tree by actually drilling a hole through the entire width of the affected area, inserting a steel rod, and syncing up the tree on both ends of the rod to clamp the two separate pieces together. Cabling and bracing are very complicated and difficult techniques that should only be undertaken by a trained ISA-certified arborist.
Tree removal should always be the last resort. Removing trees can be dangerous and even reduce the value of your property. Make sure that if you decide to remove your tree, you hire a certified arborist who can get the job done safely without affecting any trees or property surrounding the tree.
Have you ever had experiences of hazardous branches or trees falling on your property? Please tell us about your experience in the comments section.
Ever since Lewis and Clark reached the mouth of the Columbia River in 1805, 
Oregon’s Largest Tree
Without a doubt, one of Oregon’s weirdest-looking trees is a different giant Sitka spruce in Cape Meares, Oregon. Its nickname, 
is tree care. This post will answer “What is arboriculture?” in more detail, explain how it’s different from forestry and landscaping, and explain what certified arborists do.
How is arboriculture different from forestry? Good question. Forestry is about the health of groups of trees (a forest!), while arboriculture focuses on individual trees. You know the saying, “They can’t see the forest for the trees”? It’s usually an insult. Someone missed the big picture by focusing too much on little details. Well, arborists do that on purpose!
Planting trees is a fun and easy activity to do with your friends and family. When you plant trees on your property, you can add a lot of beauty and value to your landscape. While planting a tree can seem like a very simple task, there are many rules that you need to follow to ensure that your tree and landscape thrives.
When choosing where to plant your new tree, there are several things to consider. First, make sure that your tree will not be placed too close to your home’s foundation or concrete structures. Generally, a space of 10 feet or more should be between any structure and your tree. Also, make sure to check with your 
Removing the Container
Creating a water basin or berm around the base of your tree will fight soil erosion and hold water where the roots can absorb it. Make a 3 foot diameter circular berm about 3 inches tall around your tree. Make sure not to cover the trunk or flare of the tree.
What Makes a Tree Hazardous
Cracks
Decay
Cankers
Cabling or bracing a tree won’t fix the tree’s health issues, but may extend the life of a tree. Cabling a tree involves adding a steel or synthetic cable that actually wraps around a tree and its branches, securing them together and providing a failsafe in case part of that tree fails. A brace is used when a tree is split or cracking. You brace a tree by actually drilling a hole through the entire width of the affected area, inserting a steel rod, and syncing up the tree on both ends of the rod to clamp the two separate pieces together. Cabling and bracing are very complicated and difficult techniques that should only be undertaken by a trained ISA-certified arborist.
